Wednesday, February 13, 2008

The French Laundry, February 2008

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Mostly I just wanted to show you guys the photos, but I'll attempt to describe the meal a bit as well. I decided before I went that I would at least try everything that was served to me, whether or not I thought it was something I would like. I think this was a good decision.

Short version: spectacular.


Long version: We arrived a few minutes early for our reservation and our table wasn’t ready so we waited in the lobby for about 20 minutes. They brought us water and the wine list (actually more of a wine book) while we waited. We enjoyed having the French Laundry and Bouchon cookbooks there to read while we waited.
We were seated at a nice round table in the upstairs dining room. The waitress explained that there were two menus, the chef’s tasting menu and the vegetarian tasting menu. With either you were able to choose among two options for several of the courses. Both the boy and I went with the chef's tasting menu but intentionally ordered the opposite things every time we had a choice so as to be able to taste more dishes.

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We then spoke to the sommelier, who managed to work with our relatively frugal alcohol budget. For $150 we received two glasses of blanc de blanc champagne (sorry didn’t pay attention to the brands) and later, a bottle of syrah. We told him we wanted to spend up to $150 on alcohol, and our alcohol total was $149. Ha!
The meal began with the signature amuse bouche of salmon ice cream cones (salmon tartare in a savory cone with crème fraiche at the bottom.) I typically don’t enjoy salmon but this was fantastic. It was especially fun to see the actual product after having read about the process of making these in the French Laundry cookbook.

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Then we moved on to “Oysters and Pearls," which is described as a " 'Sabayon" of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and White Sturgeon Caviar." A very rich and creamy dish, I couldn't finish all the caviar but very much enjoyed the oyster and tapioca. With this dish they brought out beautiful mother of pearl utensils to eat with.

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the rolls came with two types of butter, one from Vermont, and one from Petaluma.

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note the salt crystals on the rolls:
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For the next course, we had a choice. I chose the "Salad of Hawaiian Hearts of Peach Palm," which contained "Baby beets, Satsuma Mandarin, Cutting Celery, and Black Truffle Gastrique." I found the black truffle gastrique rather lacking, (in all honesty I did not notice it and had no idea there was truffle anything in this dish until I looked at the menu later.) The beets however, were the sweetest and most delicious I have ever tasted. Hearts of palm were fine, although not anything I'd go out of my way for.

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The boy opted for the "Moulard Duck 'Foie Gras En Terrine' " which came with "Tokyo Turnips, Compressed Shin Li Pears, Mustard Seed 'Aigre-Doux' and Toasted Brioche." This was a $30.00 supplement, and the only part of the evening that annoyed me. When you're paying so much already for a tasting menu, I simply don't think there should be any "supplements" to the pricing. But being at the French Laundry and knowing how passionately Keller feels about foie gras, we had to get it. The portion was nice, the foie was velvety smooth and of course incredibly rich. The coolest part of this course is that after approximately five minutes they brought out a new round of brioche, even though we weren't close to finished with the first plate of brioche. The waitress explained that they wanted us to have warm brioche for the entire length of the course. This was one of those classy touches that distinguished FL from other fancy restaurants I've been to. Another cool touch was being served three different salts to choose from, a pink salt from Kauai, a small grain salt from a coppermine in Montana, and a grey salt from Brittany.

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in this photo you can see the brioche and the trio of salts:
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For the next course we again had a choice. I had the "Steamed Fillet of American Red Snapper" which had "Lilly Bulbs, Sweet Carrots, Pea Tendrils, and Bonito Broth." The lilly bulbs were interesting, I'd never had them before. They taste a lot like onion. The snapper was perfect.


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For this round the boy chose the " 'Sashimi' of Kinki Bluefin Tuna" which was accompanied by "Fuyu Persimmon, Sunchokes, Pine Nuts, Arugula Leaves and Nicoise Olive Oil." I'd say this definitely won the award for most beautifully presented dish of the evening, and possibly my life. It was simply stunning, we almost didn't want to eat it. But of course we did.

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Next up for both of us was the "Sweet Butter-Poached Maine Lobster Tail" which was served with "Melted Savoy Cabbage, Caramelized Cipollini Onion and Caraway Emulsion." This made every other lobster dish I'd eaten in my life pale in comparison. The cabbage was interesting, as it is something I traditionally don't like, but this was wonderful. Proof yet again that enough cream and butter make anything delicious.


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For the next course we again had a choice. The boy chose the " 'Jambonnette' of Devil's Gulch Ranch Rabbit" which came with "Potato Confit, Haricots Verts and Hard-Boiled Egg Sauce." This was a comfort food dish, with a golden fried crust around the creamy rabbity goodness. Hate to say it but it tasted sort of like chicken. The crispy exterior with the creamy middle reminded me a bit of a croquette. It looked like a big fried lollipop with the rabbit bone being the stick.

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Since the boy had ordered the rabbit I was left with no choice but to order the "Coeur de Veau Confit" with "Cope's Sweet Corn 'Financier,' Melted Swiss Chard and Sour Cherry 'Ragout' " I sure never would have believed that confited veal heart is something I would put in my mouth. But I did, and this was one of the stand out dishes of the night. Hard to describe but the first bite tasted like duck, the second more like pastrami. Of course the pastrami flavor may have become evident because the server mentioned that. Regardless, this was a dish that I didn't expect to enjoy but truly loved.

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For the second meat course, there wasn't a choice so we both had the "Ribeye of Elysian Fields Farm Lamb" with "Chanterelle Mushrooms, Fennel Bulb, Spring Garlic and Brown Butter Jus." Not being a fan of lamb I feel like I should just keep quiet about this dish except to say it looked beautiful and appeared to be cooked perfectly. The boy, who is normally not a lamb fan either, thought it was excellent.

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Onto the cheese course: " ' Moliterno' with Baby Artichoke, Frisee Lettuce and Black Truffle 'Coulis.' " The baby artichokes were wonderful and a surprising but delicious pairing with the cheese. The cheese was hard like pecorino and somewhat chalky. It was infused with truffles.

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Then they started the desserts and I thought they would never stop. First, "Diane St. Clair Buttermilk Sherbert with Honey-Glazed Cranberries and Spiced Streusel." This was very tangy like yogurt and not too sweet.

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For the next dessert we had a choice again. The boy went with the "Valrhona Chocolate 'Dobos' with Chestnut Butter, Candied Chestnuts and Brown Bread Ice Cream." We forgot to photograph this one and I don't think I got to taste it.

Meanwhile I had the "Maui Pineapple 'Pavlova' with Coconut-Pineapple Curd and 'Pate de Fruits Exotiques' " The tropical flavors were very subtle. Again, no photo, sorry. It was my first pavlova, and it reminded me of a meringue.

Next up was the vanilla creme brulee and a meyer lemon pot de creme. Luckily they were quite small portions, so we were able to find room.

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Then they brought out a ceramic box of chocolate covered macadamia nuts, then a three tiered jewelry box type container with more sweets, including turkish delight and almond petit fours. And then they came around with the truffle tray! I had a pepper and raspberry truffle and an espresso truffle. My husband tried peanut butter and carmel pistachio truffles.

the chocolate covered macadamia nuts:
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some of the mignardises: Turkish delight, almond petit fours:
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the tray of truffles from which we could choose whatever we wanted:
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Then for the part of the night where you have to just suck it up...the bill. Yes, it was over $700. Yes, even when you're sort of expecting it your heart still skips a beat. But we honestly felt like we'd gotten our money's worth. I admit I was glad we were using a credit card though...plunking down a huge pile of 20's would have really made it more difficult.

I'm not sure why, maybe because I'd been taking photos (no flash, obviously, until all the other diners had left and we were alone in the dining room) and taking a few notes, but when we finished our server offered to give us a tour of the kitchen. I couldn't believe our luck. (Maybe they do this to all the customers who are there at the end of the night but let me just pretend we're special.)

What a treat. Since we were some of the last people at the restaurant, the kitchen wasn't really operating, everything had been cleaned up and put away. Still, it was very cool to be able to see where the amazing dishes had originated.

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sense of urgency clock in a prep area of the kitchen:
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some of the beautiful produce in the storage area of the kitchen:
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look at all the different types of glasses!
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We walked out of there feeling blissful. I'm already scheming as to how I can work another meal there into my budget.


Well, if you made it this far, thanks for reading my long long review! And if you ever find yourself with hundreds of dollars that you don't know what to do with, I'd recommend heading immediately for the French Laundry.

Sunday, November 18, 2007

My NCL cruise

Come rain or shine, a healthy dose of sea air can bolster any appetite - not a bad thing if the food is worth waiting for

That may sum it up in giving you an idea of just how "bad" the food was and yet it certainly did not stop those who just wanted to eat - and eat - and eat

This was not my first cruise - nor my last - but my expectations from past experience was severly and sorely shaken by NCL

It seems that new kitchen staff was added on to the cruise the day of my departure and there was on this new staffs part a confussion as just how to cook - I wondered where the exec chef was and if he ever did a spoon taste on anything that came out of the galley

I actually thought that the method to NCL's madness was to have such bad food so you would have to patronize one of the Specialty Restos on board that had an extra cover charge of anywhere from $15 to $30/pp
But after doing some detective work and asking many questions, I found out they were no better

From overcooked to undercooked, to food cooked in rancid oil, this was definitely not a cruise for a foodie
Desserts that a diabetic would turn up their nose to and not be able to crave - Jello pudding would be more satisfying
To have to endure the same menu for another day would make one want to fly home to their own kitchen and cook with "sabor", "gusto", and plenty of garlic
Oh how I wanted to be able to cook something comforting and familiar - flavourful and satisfying and with garlic
Never realized you can get the DT's from "not enough garlic"

Tickets may be cheap to allow one to cruise, but it is made up in $11.75 for a beer, $9 for a cocktail, $6 for a coke or club soda, $20 to play bingo and the list goes on

This cruise was what NCL calls Freestyling - no demands put on anyone as to when to eat and what to wear
That needs to change in a big way - it is one thing to go casual, but to go in ripped and torn jeans to dinner, or to sit by someone who should never wear a bathing suit...
The elegance of cruising did no longer exist here
No Captains dinner or Captains Table with foie gras, shrimp, caviar or salmon, no Garde Manger work, no food presentations to dazzle over in amazement and no midnight feasts or chocolate madness
And ice sculptures did not exist

The shows were entertaining - not Broadway - but entertaining never the less

While docked in Freeport we stared all day at some type of mining quarry facility and hardly anyone left the ship
But thankfully when reaching Nassau I had a lovely quiet day at the saltwater pool, have a burn to prove it and also managed to catch up on some reading
That was my intentions from the beginning to do on this cruise
No touristy programs for me

Met some very nice people and I am glad my Spanglish was okey dokey because this should have been called the Little Havana cruise - I enjoyed that part as they know how to enjoy life and have very hearty laughs and wonderful smelling cigars

NCL does need to address some things - perhaps no smoking in the Casino, a bit of a dress code, cheaper prices in their on board shoppes and a little more wooing also on their part to make people want to come back...

I am sure the shock of receiving ones bar bill just before departing, put many into cardiac arrest and will think about how to cruise in the future

Cheers to the crew who have left their families to work very hard and make it a pleasure to sail
I heard many of their stories and watched them work on their feet all day to please -and that in itself is a feat

For me, not to have to make beds, clean or cook was a bit of a joy and I did wish I had one more day in the sun

I only wish my hunger were sated by better offerings

Monday, November 5, 2007

Vive Sol, Mountain View, CA

Vive Sol is a cheerful, elegant Mexican restaurant on El Camino Real in Mountain View. (Palo Alto Sol, on California Avenue in Palo Alto, is the same menu and owners.) It's a lvovely place. Sit-down with table service and nice decor, lots of Mexican artifacts -- and on our recent trip, a lot of Dia de los Muertos stuff was still up. They serve regional dishes from teh Mexican state of Puebla. Hrz and I both had the Enchiladas Al Sol with cheese. Two enchiladas, one in creamy orange-colored guajillo sauce and one in dark, rich mole sauce, accompanied by refried black beans and tomato-kissed Mexican rice. With the cheese filling (also available with chicken or beef), it's an incredibly rich and delicious plateful. The mole is a bit sweeter than I'd prefer but otherwise its a perfect meal. My dad-in-lay had the Pollo Ranchero, chicken strips with a savory stew of peppers and onions; the Bistec Ranchero is also excellent. Mom-in-law had Pollo Negro, chunks of chicken in a tangy sauce of white wine and cream served on a bed of fresh raw spinach. Everything was delicious, as it always is.
The Palo Alto location is a bit more cramped but excellent in every other respect.

Sunday, November 4, 2007

TED PETERS FAMOUS SMOKE FISH

http://tampabay.citysearch.com/profile/2693868/south_pasadena_fl/ted_peters_famous_smoked_fish.

This is a family owned restaurant that has been in the same spot for over 50 years (since 1951)
It sits on the main strip of Pasadena Avenue as you are entering the St Pete beach area - and it is a very busy and noisy street

I caught a review on the Food Network, and since knowing I would be in the area, I wanted to do my own to see how honest they are

It is totally al fresco dinning with picnic tables - and if you stay for lunch, the hardwood seats are not suited for anyone with back problems

The smokehouse is a seperate building and you are welcome to go see the process and to buy the fish directly from there
The restaurant puts together the dinners - with all the "fixins"
I ordered a pint of their famous fish dip - which after trying it at home reminds me of grilled tuna salad at high end prices

Next on my list was to get 2 dinners, so I decided on the smoked salmon and the mahi-mahi

The smell drove me crazy in the car on the drive back and I was hoping it was going to be worth my little adventure

The table was set at home and we dove in
The dip was a hit as was the salmon
The mahi was a little too heavy on the smoke
The cole slaw had a hint of pineapple juice mixed in and was very tasty, but the potato salad was excellent - made in the German style with lots of bacon
There was enough food there to feed six people - you get a pound slab of each fish

Overall, I would say if you are in the area stop by but don't go out of your way
The 2 dinners and pint of dip cost $45 and it is cash only - and be prepared to have your hands and clothes smell of smoke for the rest of the day

Ted Peters Famous Smoke Fish
1350 Pasadena Avenue
Pasadena, FL
In St Pete

Wednesday, October 31, 2007

Felidia Ristorante


What can I say? Felidia is my favorite NYC restaurant so far, and it's going to take something spectacular to outshine this classic Italian restaurant. The admiration for it's founder is national at the very least, and Lidia Bastianich was honored by NYC with the title of Grand Marshall in this year's Columbus Day Parade on 5th Avenue.
The menu is seasonal and because our reservation was in Fall, we were treated to the regular Fall menu, plus a list of offerings made exclusively with Winter squashes as the main ingredient(have you ever heard of a Fall squash?). We started our meal with a special charcuterie offering that included Kobe beef cured in coffee, duck with juniper berries, several types of pork with savory curing agents and all were served with dried fruits and aged balsamic. While I ordered a warming and filling Delicata and barley soup from the special menu, my companion ordered the pear and fresh pecorino ravioli that is a staple on the Felidia menu, so creamy and delicious. All items are described on her website linked at the bottom of this review.
My entree was also selected from the squash menu and was a Blue Hubbard risotto with Humbolt Fog goat cheese and a smattering of watercress with a single demitasse spoonful of 25 year old balsamic which was ceremoniously opened and poured at the table. Why didn't I insist on licking the spoon? It was clearly one of life's lost moments. My dinner partner ordered lamb cooked two ways. His plate was layered with fresh steamed vegetable tidbits, two perfectly cooked French cut lamb chops and an osso buco of lamb, better know as the neck that had been braised to perfection. Mashed butternut squash finished the offering. On Christmas Eve 2005 we had an equally wonderful experience with a perfectly cooked roast duck, and the year before was every bit as good. Our starter at that time was foie gras cooked 3 ways. Unfortunately, that is no longer on the menu.

Patsy's


John's, move over, Patsy's get's my vote for a great Italian style pizza in NYC. The restaurant is family friendly, moderately priced, comfortable and considering there is no carpeting, you do not need to yell at your companions to have a conversation.
Their regular pizza is the star. The sauce is sweet as though every tomato in it was vine ripened. The mozzerella was fresh, rather than the aged mozzerella of typical restaurant pizzas. Together with the fresh basil leaves you have a little slice of heaven in your hands. The dinner rolls seemed freshly baked and had the texture of a sourdough although they were sweet.
If you are a meatball and spaghetti fan, you will not be disappointed by the veal meatballs; if that was beef, they fooled me completely. The cheese ravioli with pistachio sauce was lovely and delicate in taste. They were rich yet subtle in flavor. Click on the first photo for adresses.

Risottoria


I've peered into the window of this small, West Village restaurant on my last 3 trips to NYC. This time I finally crossed the threshold into the dining room and risotto bar. Small may be an understatement for this risotto, pizza and paninni emporium. The tables are no more than 1" apart and have to be moved completely to allow a diner to be seated at the banquette that lines the main wall. If truth be told, I resisted since the recipes as listed on the menu looked very non traditional. What a breath of fresh air. The sweetcorn and porcini risotto with truffle oil was delicious and I am now encouraged to start experimenting on risotti at home. The truffle oil was a bit heavy handed, but my dinner companion had no complaint when it was scooped from my plate and drizzled over his porcini risotto. Both risotti were competently executed with a generous amount of porcini in each dish.
The roasted beet salad with walnuts and truffle oil was less stellar. The combination of the earthy beet and earthier truffle oil sounded appealing, but in reality, it was overkill. The restaurant is located on Bleeker Street just a block south of John's Pizzaria.